More on the wear of fabrics
By R. David Whitby, Contributing Editor | TLT Worldwide September 2024
Three main factors affect the wear resistance of fabrics.
In my May TLT column I wrote about test methods to determine the wear resistance of fabrics. Now I want to turn to the reasons why different fabrics have greater wear resistance than others.
Three main factors affect the wear resistance of fabrics: quality, strength and durability.
With regard to fabric quality, it is important to understand thread count and weave. Thread count refers to the number of threads woven together in a square of fabric. Some manufacturers use square inches of fabric, while others use square centimeters. Obviously the number of threads per square will be different, for threads of the same thickness. Thread count plays a significant role in determining the fabric’s overall quality. High thread counts usually indicate a finer and more durable fabric. However, it is important that the thread count is accurately measured. Some manufacturers may increase the thread count by using thinner, lower-quality threads, giving a false impression of quality.
The weave of the fabric also is very important. Weave of a fabric refers to the pattern in which the threads are interlaced. The types of fabric weave can determine its smoothness, comfort, thickness, durability, tear strength and even drape. Two separate sets of threads are woven over and beneath each other to create a finished fabric. In the most basic of fabric weaving, the threads (lengthwise warps and crosswise wefts) go criss-cross in the simplest pattern at right angles to each other. In others, they are woven in many decorative ways.
There are 20 different types of fabric weaving patterns. The three basic types that form all the others are plain, twill and satin. Other types include herringbone, sateen, oxford, crepe, tapestry, checkered and striped. Descriptions of each of the types are beyond the scope of this column.
A high thread count, combined with a tight and balanced weave, can result in a more durable fabric. These tend to be more resistant to wear, ensuring a longer life for the fabric.
With plain weaves the warp thread is interlaced over the weft thread by alternately lifting and lowering of the yarns so that every weft thread goes under and over the warp threads across the width of the fabric. Plain weaves have the advantage of being quite strong and durable, producing very fine good quality fabrics. There are several sub-types of plain weave, including tabby, taffeta, linen (also called Panama) and percale weave. Poplin weave is an unbalanced plain weave in which two weft threads and one warp thread of the same color cross each other, creating a ribbed weave.
In twill weave, either one or more warp fibers alternately weave over and under two or more weft fibers repeatedly (weft-faced) or one or more weft fibers alternately weave over and under two or more warp fibers repeatedly (warp-faced). Twill weave is characterized by clear diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric. The back side of this weave is rough and will show the opposite pattern of the front. These fabrics are more durable, heavy and wrinkle-resistant than ones with plain weave. Twill weaves include denim, flannel, velvet, drill, jersey and gabardine. In denim the weft thread is white or off-white and the warp thread is indigo dyed.
Satin weaves are a variation of twill weaves but with continuous warp yarn, with as few interruptions of weft as possible, which means it has fewer intersections of warp and weft threads. As a result, weft yarns are floated over warp yarns. These fabrics have a high thread count and produce a smooth, lustrous and flexible fabric, known for their luxurious appearance and feel. Satin fabrics’ disadvantage is that the fabric fibers will easily snag, so this weave is not considered as strong as other weaves.
To accurately evaluate a fabric’s strength and durability, it is important to consider its resilience, which is its ability to withstand stress and return to its original shape. Three other factors affect a fabric’s strength and durability. A fabric with high tear resistance will be less prone to developing holes or tears, making it more durable. The ability of the fabric to support strong seams is essential for the overall durability of the fabric. Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibers on the fabric’s surface, so fabrics with low pilling resistance tend to look worn out and less appealing, and are less durable.
David Whitby is chief executive of Pathmaster Marketing Ltd. in Surrey, England. You can reach him at pathmaster.marketing@yahoo.co.uk.